Bye bye Hueco....

Awesome...would be the word I would use to sum up our experience here in Hueco. After a late night for us (11pm our time) hanging out in the barn with the rest of the climbing crowd we woke up knowing today was our final day to complete those routes that have denied us. We were essentially hoping for what all climbers hope for, a "low gravity" day...a day which seems like there's a little less gravity to fight against. We also discovered that Fort Bliss tactical range was on the other side of the mountain just ways off. That explained the 10 jets flying in formation and the dozen military helicopters that buzzed our campsite. Of course minutes later you could hear ordinance going off miles away.

Our first assault was on "T-Bone Shuffle" (V4). After exchanging tips and beta with other climbers in the barn we pulled out a few tricks to pull on the route. Placing a foot on a certain nub and turning your knee just right makes all the difference. Also, shifting your weight a certain way before throwing (dynoing) 4 feet for the final jug will give you that extra half finger length needed to wrap your fingers around the hold. Thats just the physical aspect of this climb, not to mention the crash pads and spotters needed to keep you safe. You either commit 100% and stick it or think twice/have doubts and rely on the pads and people below you. After practicing the sequence that gave me trouble on Monday and sticking it on the second try I was ready to put it all together to make it count. A few attempts later and with multiple spotters and pads protecting the rocks below from me falling on them I stuck the long reach from a left side pull with my foot flagged far left. A short throw later and my hand sunk into the pocket. Boy was I elated to have topped out that problem, not only did I finally stick that move but my fingers were able to get a rest as I didn't have to get back on it, until next time. Larry threw a different arsenal at it opting to go with the complete 4 foot left angling dyno. Its harder than it looks since your feet are not under as the foot holds are underneath an overhang. He went all out throwing up and to the left for that final hold that eluded us since Monday. However, gravity must have kicked back into full gear and Larry managed to only get the tips of his fingers to the final hold. No worries though, after 3 full days of climbing- fingers raw, forearms screaming, muscles aching- we both have problems to come back to. Like "Ghetto Simulator" (V2) an insanely long and angled problem. Photos can't do it justice. I`m sure you`ll see some photos of it but picture an overhanging rock about 30 feet long pitched from ground level upward, like a leaning chimney and then escaping the overhang to top out around the front corner. Thats definitely one we will be back for since it was our last climb of the week and we did about 95% of it...the hardest moves coming at the end of the route.

We met up with a group, one of the guys being a Hueco Tanks climbing guide in training, and he took us all to some of the best rock art in the park. After a hike up the rock we came to a horizontal seam that was only a few feet off the ground, a little belly sliding later we were in a small chamber that held some pretty cool paintings. From there he navigated us to "Ghetto Simulator" where we all took a turn or two on it.

Its safe to say we have never had a climbing experience like we have had here in Texas and we hope it can just get better as this trip goes on. With a good rest day or two we should be able to climb stronger and bolder at our next destination- Red Rock Canyon, Nevada.

And now for the tunes:

Pink Floyd- The Division Bell

See you in Nevada...